Hearst Castle, Cambria, Big Sur coast add up to a great getaway

By Julie Davis Berry
Executive Editor

My family and I recently took a long getaway weekend down the coast to the beautiful shores of San Simeon to visit Hearst Castle and one of our favorite small towns - Cambria. Altogether we toured the castle, shopped at funky antique shops, ate delicious food, slept in fun hotels and walked along the beach at sunset. My sister and I even squeezed in relaxing pedicures. All in all, it was a nice relaxing getaway for the whole family.
It is always fun to return to Hearst Castle, an estate on 250,000 acres featuring 165 elaborate rooms, 127 acres of gardens, terraces, pools and walkways. Although I had visited the castle a couple of times before it seems there is always something new to see or to learn about the owner. The castle is the brainchild of the late newspaper tycoon William Randolph Hearst who inherited the land from his mother Phoebe Apperson Hearst and his father George Hearst, a wealthy miner.
He worked for 28 years to create the elegant estate with famed San Francisco architect Julia Morgan. The estate’s main house, “Casa Grande,” and three guesthouses are of Mediterranean revival style with the towers of Casa Grande inspired by a Spanish Cathedral Hearst had seen as a child travelling through Europe with his mother. It was from those travels that Hearst also developed a love for fine art from Italy and Spain, which he eventually brought to America to fill his castle.
There are four tours to choose from. We took tour one, which is called the “Experience Tour” and features the main house, the Esplanade and gardens, a beautiful outdoor pool featuring marble statues and an 18-room guest house, Casa del Sol, with sweeping views of the Pacific. This tour also includes an Imax film in the National Geographic Theater. The 40 minute film “Hearst Castle – Building the Dream” was produced exclusively for this five-story theater so that when an airplane soars over the ocean cliffs you feel like you too are flying. The breathtaking cinematography combined with vintage clips and stills from the 1920’s and 30’s allows visitors to experience the building and background of the castle.
On our first night my sister and I shared a finely appointed room at the Best Western Cavalier Oceanfront Resort. The room featured a fireplace, wet bar, a huge bathtub and a view overlooking the ready-made bonfires the hotel offers on the beach. There was a small sitting area that faced the fireplace and an ocean view from the large patio. This is one of the nicest hotels in San Simeon and the only one on the beach. But, if you are going to book a room be sure to request one in the building close to the ocean as that offers by far the best views. An extra-added benefit is that the hotel accepts dogs as overnight guests and many of the guests brought along their furry friends.
The next two nights we moved to the Moonstone Landing Hotel down the coast in Cambria. The newly built hotel features rooms decorated in upscale mission style furniture and each room also has a fireplace. There are several rooms facing the beach that also feature Jacuzzi tubs. Although the Cavalier can’t be beat for it’s room décor and incredible views, the Moonstone Landing had more comfortable beds. Guests are treated to a large continental breakfast and afternoon refreshments.
Right next to the Moonstone Landing is the The Sea Chest Restaurant and Oyster Bar. After watching the sunset one evening, my sister and I went to the Sea Chest and sat at the bar for a delicious seafood feast. I ordered the halibut and a tasty chardonnay and my sister had the red snapper on the waiter’s recommendation. Well actually he said, “ Just sit here a while and watch what we prepare and let your eyes make the selection.” The atmosphere was warm and friendly and we enjoyed watching the cooks preparing the delicious seafood.
Another wonderful restaurant we tried was The Sow’s Ear, which is located on Cambria’s Main Street. It came highly recommended by the locals and I was pleasantly surprised by the prime rib, which was mouth watering delicious. My 13-year-old was less than happy with the specialty of the house, chicken fried steak. But, everyone else enjoyed his or her entrees. The atmosphere was pleasantly upscale without being too stuffy for kids and we got out of there without having to mortgage the house.
Cambria is a charming little town that attracts artisans from around the country. It has storefront after storefront filled with everything from glassware to pottery to antique jewelry and furniture. After a long day of shopping my sister and I decided to treat ourselves to a foot massage. She went for a foot reflexology massage at Exotic Nature while I went for a parafin wax pedicure at Pacific Hair Design. We both felt relaxed and pampered after our excursions.
By this time our stomachs were growling so we heeded the locals advice and checked out the Courtyard Deli at the entrance to Main Street. Although The Grill across the street was always packed the Courtyard Deli offers the ‘best sandwiches in town’ with specialties like black bean veggie burgers and California turkey avocado ortega. But come hungry or plan to share a sandwich because they are absolutely huge! The sandwiches range from $5 to $10. The smoothies are also delicious and freshly made. Lunch can be enjoyed on the funky courtyard patio, which features window shopping in the nearby kayak and antique auto stores. The meals are hand delivered by the friendly owner, Alexandra Chamberlain, who just happens to be a San Jose transplant. “I love it here,” she said as she gave us suggestions on restaurants to try for dinner. “We take our food very seriously in Cambria!”
If you are visiting Cambria Nitt Witt Ridge should definitely be on your ‘must see’ list if only for the irony that it is the yang to the nearby Hearst Castle’s yin. Built over several years by one man, the late Arthur Beal, (AKA Captain Nitt Witt, Der Tinkerpaw,etc.) who used rocks, wood, abalone shells, beer cans, TV sets and even toilet seats to build this three level house on over two acres. This home has now been declared a California State Historic Landmark and tours are offered of the eccentric house and grounds. The tour is approximately 45 minutes long and includes a short video.
On the way home we took the long leisurely drive up Highway 1’s Big Sur Coast. The views are amazing and there are many opportunities to pull over to take pictures or just enjoy what has been described as the most breathtakingly beautiful stretch of coast in the world.
A perfect ending to a perfect weekend.

Hearst Castle is at 750 Hearst Castle Road, San Simeon. Call (1-800) 444-4445 for reservations or visit the web site at www.hearstcastle.org. Ticket prices are $7 for youths and $14 for adults, per tour.
Nit Wit Ridge is at 881 Hillcrest Drive, Cambria. Call (805) 927-2690 for tour information.
The Cavalier Best Western Oceanfront Resort is at 9415 Hearst Drive, San Simeon. For reservations call (1-800) 826-8168 or visit the web site at www.cavalierresort.com
Moonstone Landing is at 6240 Moonstone Beach Drive, Cambria. Call (805) 830-4540 for reservations or visit the web site at www.moonstonelanding.com
The Sow’s Ear Café is at 2248 Main Street, Cambria. The phone number is (805) 927-4865 and the web site is www.thesowsear.com.
The Sea Chest Restaurant and Oyster Bar is at 6216 Moonstone Beach Drive, Cambria. The phone number is (805) 927-4514.
The Courtyard Deli is at 604 Main St., Cambria. The phone number is (805) 927-3833.
Exotic Nature is at 783 Main St., Cambria. The phone number is (805) 927-8423.
Pacific Hair Design is at 780 Arlington St., Cambria. The phone number is (805) 927-5655.