July 15, 2004

A passion for food

Almaden restaurant calls it the key ‘element’ in quality dining

By Kymberli W. Brady
Staff Writer 

Although this familiar location has proved less than flourishing for two Almaden eateries in the past, 29-year-old Tristen Trinh may have found just the right combination of “elements” to succeed where others before him have failed—a welcome sight for a diverse Almaden community begging for a place to call their own. 

His restaurant, appropriately called Elements, offers a unique blend of contemporary Vietnamese and Euro-Asian dishes—Asian fusion, as he likes to call it. Located at Almaden Expressway and Via Valente, it may inhabit the same walls where Almaden Bistro and Umunhum once existed, but that’s where the similarities end. 

An accomplished pilot and promising ice-dancer, Trinh moved from Vietnam to San Jose 12 years ago. After receiving a degree in aviation from San Jose State University, he worked for an investment firm until his mother convinced him to follow his heart and pursue what has been a long-standing family tradition. 

He has no formal training in the culinary industry, but hails from a lineage filled with world-class restaurateurs—and along with it, the kind of experience that can’t be taught. Trinh spent much of his childhood in his grandmother’s restaurant, where he discovered that the fundamental element needed to produce a successful recipe, including that of a thriving business, is passion. 

“You have to have passion—a love for what you do,” he explains. “And then, you have to give some of that passion back.” 

Trinh admits that his initial plans included a smaller setting, but he fell in love with the location and its surrounding community. To gain a more personal perspective, he worked for two months—without pay, as a busboy for Almaden Bistro, where relationships that formed with the customers and Chef Tung Nguyen validated his decision. Armed with funding from his savings and loans from family members, Elements opened for business, with a modest staff, help from his parents, and Nguyen, who decided to stay on. 

Although the menu changes in tandem with the availability of fresh meats, fish, herbs and organic produce, a wide variety of entrees and specials are offered at sensible prices ($12 - $18), making the decision to start with an appetizer, soup, or salad ($4 - $8) a more palatable one. An impressive wine inventory occupies a chilled room in the back, where vintages are available by the glass or bottle. And, with a selection of kid-friendly items for children 12 and under ($6.50), quality dining can once again be a family affair. 

For starters, try one of Trinh’s signature appetizers—Grilled Beef, wrapped in Hawaiian Betel Leaves and rice flour crepes, topped with sesame seeds and served with a Vietnamese dipping sauce. The Tropical Shrimp Martini is another favorite—black tiger shrimp, marinated and grilled with Vietnamese herbs surround a martini glass filled with mango salsa, avocado and lime. And, by adding mint leaves to the Fresh Spring Rolls, Trinh ventures out of the box for a refreshing alternative to a traditional favorite. Rich soups and decorative salads are also offered. 

Salmon Wellington, a daily special, is presented on a blanket of woven asparagus spears in a light herb sauce, while a generous helping of moist, tender fish and herbs on a bed of spinach simmers inside the delicate pastry.

The flavor and texture combinations are well matched and cooked to perfection. A glass of Trefethen 2002 Riesling makes an excellent companion for this dish—without the sweetness expected from the traditional variety. 

For a more exotic fare, the Tea-Smoked Duck with Lotus Roots, Taro and Sweet Potato Gratin is another signature dish—and rightfully so. Tender slices of duck surround a mound of layered taro and sweet potato topped with crispy lotus root strips. A whisper of cinnamon enhances the flavor of the creamy gratin combination, while the sweetness of the cranberry nectarine reduction sauce, coupled with the orange spice tea-smoked process produces a unique flavor combination that begs to be experienced, rather than described. Paired with a full-bodied glass of 1999 Hilltop Vineyard Cabernet by J. Lohr, this entree is not easily forgotten. 

Special dietary requests and substitutions, along with pasta and burgers are available as well, including a Barbecue Turkey Burger, with spinach, tempura eggplant and sautéed red onions—a twist on an old favorite.  

Seven desserts are offered—one for each day of the week. Although Crème Brule remains a favorite, Trinh recommends the strawberries, marinated in honey with brandy accents, then spooned into a martini glass with ice cream for a light and refreshing finish. Flan, his mother’s recipe, completes the list because, he says, “We saved the best for last.” 

Lately, business has been brisk, especially on weekends—forcing Trinh on occasion to close early, or risk the quality he demands for his clientele. 

“I’d rather loose business than offer less to those sitting at my tables,” he says. 

Following the advice of friends, and their son Ryan, who works there, the Reynolds family decided to give it a try. The quality of the food, as well as the experience, according to Cheryl Reynolds, was “extraordinary.” 

“It was amazing,” she says, “He obviously has a passion for his presentation, and it was lovingly prepared for us to enjoy. It’s so nice to have a quality place here on the south end—a cozy, quaint neighborhood restaurant with food I’d rate a 10. And the price was right.” 

As the community continues to embrace this elegant new eatery, Trinh rewards loyal customers with free meals on their eighth visit. In the meantime, he strives to perfect the experience by allowing patrons to sample wine before making a selection and passing out free deserts. He’s even stayed after closing so one customer could pick up her order after work. 

“I want them to be happy,” he says. “And they really appreciate that.” 

Starting July 23, Elements will be open for lunch, with the launch of their Sunday Brunch on July 25. As Trinh reflects on his success so far, he notes that, “it’s not really about the money,” rather the encounter—a testament to his mission statement, which reads,

“We see our restaurant beyond its definition of a place where people come to eat. We see it as a place where people simply come to celebrate life. For our growth, we would like to make sure that dining with us will always be an experience that starts with wonderful tastes on the tongue, but ends as an unforgettable memory in the heart.” 

Located at 6944 Almaden Expressway, Elements is open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. It opens for lunch beginning July 23, which will be offered Tuesday through Saturday from 10:30 am to 2:30 p.m., with plans for patio dining. Elements opens for brunch every Sunday on July 25 from 10:30 am to 2:30 p.m.

Takeout is available and reservations are recommended. (408) 927-8773.