June 23, 2005

Mt. Umunhum: Up close and personal

Remnants of bygone era leave a ghost town the government left behind

By Jeanne Carbone Lewis
Staff Writer

Almaden residents and friends of Mt. Umunhum pose for a group photo after a day they likely won’t forget. Photos by Jeanne Carbone Lewis

The radar tower on Mt. Umunhum is an everyday landmark for Almaden Valley residents. The 3,486-foot peak is monikered by the Ohlone word for “resting place of the hummingbird.” And it is.

A recent visit by Almaden residents and friends of Mt Umunhum allowed for an up-close-and-personal view. And, they were delighted by what they found.

The 11,646-acre region marks the southern end of the Midpeninsula Regional Open Space District [MROSD] and includes the former Almaden Air Force Base, which was part of the early-warning radar network decades ago. As there is no public access [three locked gates keep encroachers at bay to the private property], it is only be special request that interested parties may view the area. All others are trespassing.

Toxic contaminants and debris are intertwined with the radar tower, old officers’ quarters, mess hall, shop, a one-lane bowling alley, swimming pool overtaken by cattails and a gymnasium. It is the ghost town the government left behind.

Mt. Umunhum is part of the Sierra Azul [“blue range”] Open Space Preserve and under the guidance of MROSD. Ranger Ben Guzman accompanied the group. The area is overgrown with brush and remnants of the men and women who worked and lived at the site. Wildflowers and brush grow among what was once the thriving Almaden Air Force Base.

Why the base is closed
The site is closed because of the access issue and the hazards the weathered buildings present. Damaged in the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake, the buildings need to be removed or secured before general public use is possible. Asbestos, lead-based paint, solvents and other toxins are present. MROSD has requested and persists in appealing to the Federal government to take responsibility for the clean up and provide a funding source. After the cleanup, the goal is to open the area to the public for low-intensity recreational use.

And what a facility it will be once it is open to the public. Besides the historical buildings of another time, the terrain is gorgeous. There are chaparral-covered slopes, serpentine grasslands, bay and blue oak woodlands home to deer, bobcat, coyote along with the elusive mountain lion and the red-legged frog, which is on the federally endangered list.

Click map to enlarge

The old air force base showcases some of the best panoramic views of the New Almaden Quicksilver Mine, Santa Clara Valley, San Jose’s downtown and on a clear day far up the bay.

But for now the Mt Umunhum area is open by special request only. Kitty Monahan, president of New Almaden Quicksilver County Park Association, arranged the recent visit.

“I want to thank Mike and Suzie Quane and Mike Newburn [MROSD] for allowing and setting up our group to see our favorite mountain,” said Monahan. “And please do not tear down the monolith because I would never find my way home to New Almaden!”

Ghost stories, Indians and an albino colony?
Legends abound at Mt. Umunhum. Some say it was named after an Ohlone Chief. When radar was in effect on top of the monolith, garage doors would open mysteriously, lights would turn on and bells at school would ring. By process of elimination, residents discovered the true culprit was the air force base, the government’s secret weapon to halt to the cold war on the West Coast.

“Are there any ghost stories here?” asked New Almaden resident Mike Boulland.

“Some people believe that the air force base is still up and active,” said Guzman. “They believe there is an albino colony somewhere in the hills. There’s the rumor that if you drive up to Mt. Umunhum, the albinos will jump out, make you turn around and scare you off.”

No wonder there are so many no trespassing signs.

For more information on Sierra Azul Open Space Preserve and to become more involved in the clean up of Mt. Umunhum go to www.openspace.org. For more Mt. Umunhum pictures visit the Times website at www.almadentimes.com.