June 17, 2004

TIMES TRAVELS

Jetting off to Waikiki for a long weekend, part 2


By Mike Cleary
Special to the Times


When I learned we were headed to Honolulu for the weekend, I called the “foodiest” friend we have. When it comes to dining recommendations, Jim Barraco’s credentials are impeccable. Jim can remember everything he’s ever eaten from mother’s milk forward. Secondly, he travels to Honolulu a lot on business and is on a first-name basis with Oahu’s vibrant dining scene.

Jim ran through a number of respected eateries like Alan Wong’s, La Mer, Roy’s and Sam Choy’s, mentioning signature menu items in glowing detail and adding that none of them would disappoint. But, he added, if we were looking for something—shall we say—more transcendent, then we should take ourselves and our appetites to L’Uraku.

A recommendation like this is to be taken seriously. I quickly e-mailed the restaurant (www.luraku.com) and secured a reservation. It was fortuitous as our Saturday of choice was also the eve of the University of Hawaii graduations and the place was—as my restaurant-managing daughter would say—slammed.

The restaurant is on the ground floor of an office building on Kapiolani Boulevard behind the Ala Moana Shopping Center. L’Uraku, which means happy space, has done what it can to cheer up an otherwise sterile environment. Hand-painted umbrellas hand upside down from the ceiling and a colorful mural of sheer whimsy weaves it way through the room, all the work of a talented expressionist artist named Kiyoshi.

The other expressionist artist on the premises is Chef Hiroshi Fukui. He is a founding member of the Hawaiian Islands Chef organization and, like his colleagues, uses his restaurant as a showcase for fresh, locally grown products.

One of these “island” products is a locally farmed fish called moi. We first tried moi at the Prince Court seafood buffet in the Hawaii Prince Hotel Waikiki, which is popular with the locals. The story goes that only Hawaiian Royalty were allowed to eat it. Today, any sunburned commoner can enjoy it. Chef Hiroshi magically turns moi into sizzling carpaccio, serves it up in a foil pouch, steams it with bok choi and macadamia nut ginger basil pesto and pan sears it with homemade pickled red cabbage, kabayaki butter and mashed potatoes. I had the latter which leaves me with three more delicious reasons to return.

One reader, Susan Watson, has already tried L’Uraku based on the above review. In an e-mail she asked for the name, explaining she was headed to Oahu before this would be published and had read my last column teasing a thumbs-up Honolulu dining experience.

During our subsequent correspondence, I learned we both lived on Oahu at about the same time decades ago. She grew up there and I went there fresh out of the Army in search of radio work. We share a real fondness for Waikiki and not just the Waikiki of our individual memories, but the very different city that exists today. Susan mentioned she spent a week in Hawaii last June and was “pleased and impressed with the energy and restoration that has revitalized my old stomping grounds.”

I couldn’t agree more. Waikiki Beach is much improved with public art, garden areas and clean public facilities. On weekends, the famed beach becomes an entertainment venue with local performers and first-run movies. It’s free to all. Once a month on Sunday, Kalakaua Avenue becomes a giant outdoor cafe with entertainment and foods from a variety of restaurants all moderately priced.

We do have one gripe with modern day Waikiki. Neither of us are fans of the unattractive and view-stopping shopping mall in front of the Royal Hawaiian Hotel. It’s Waikiki’s Embarcadero Freeway.

Sally, who is busy putting together a cultural tour titled “Arts and Soul of Oahu” for sometime in November, was kind enough to include in her e-mail two of her favorite places for lunch. They are the Waioli Tea Room in Manoa Valley and the cafe at the Honolulu Academy of Arts.

Mary Ann and I also have a lunch favorite. It is the House Without a Key, the poolside restaurant at the luxurious Halekulani Hotel. The food is superb, the service is special, the setting is lovely and it only hurts when the check comes. Cheers.

Mike Cleary and his wife Mary Ann co-host “Food and Travel Radio” at 6 p.m. Sundays on KABL 960 AM. Readers can e-mail Mike at mc@foodandtravelradio.com.