May 13, 2004

Do shorter skirts mean better economic times ahead?

By Kymberli W. Brady
Staff Writer

With the spring fashion forecast dictating brighter colors and shorter skirts, one can’t help but wonder if the old axiom, “when a woman’s hemline rises, so does the economy” will stand true—leading the way for more robust times ahead.

The aptly named “hemline theory” dates back to the 1920s, when economist George Taylor saw that women tended to raise their skirts during good economic times to show off their silk stockings. In bad times, skirts plummeted to hide the fact that they weren’t wearing any.

Fashion remains a lifestyle statement that touches on all age groups and reaches all segments of society. In the U.S., “causal Fridays” at the office, coupled with more relaxed dressing became so popular over the years that its importance in indicating trends has subsided—falling more on cultural and celebrity influences instead. Wide availability of fabric choices and cost-effective manufacturing techniques allow designers much more leeway for creative expression, along with the ability to offer styles to suite every taste and budget.

But some market watchers say that a willingness to embrace mini skirts could be due in large fact to the consumer’s need to look for ways to get their minds off things or feel better during a floundering econ-omy and political unrest.

Jaleh Welby of Café Hair agrees. Fresh from her annual trip to the runways of Milan, not only did she find the skirts shorter, but brighter colors with softer, more romantic styles dominated the fashion industry for the coming season. She says that taking a special interest in looking good is a psychological way to deal with sociological and political uncertainty—a retreat into comfort.

“The look this year is much more romantic,” she says. “Nothing harsh and punky.”

The success at Café Hair in Almaden Valley, where the depressed Silicon Valley economy saw residents fleeing for greener pastures and cheaper real estate, could go a long way in proving the “feel good” theory. “It was our best year in 17 years,” Welby admits. “But I think the trips to Italy are making a big difference as consumers are so educated now. They want their money’s worth. They want change and they want the latest.”

Romantic dressing, using delicate fabrics in bright, cheerful colors and prints hit the Milan runways in full force as the trend for the coming months looks to soothe the emotionally ravaged worldwide psyche. With it came softer curls and a hair color technique called glazing.

According to Welby, hair color is now more about illusion than the chunky highlights of the past, using multi-tonal colors in large patches to create shadows in shiny blondes, coppery reds and warm browns—allowing the hair to radiate in its own light. “There are still a lot of colors, but you don’t see the lines as much,” she explains. “They are all melted in together to create layers of different colors.”

One exception to the move toward more natural hair color is the reintroduction of “Lucille Ball” red, a trend that Welby doesn’t think will catch on in the U.S. “I don’t think it’s very becoming,” she admits. “But Italians like to make a statement. Once they get into something, they do a lot of it.”

And with the reinvention of hair color comes the resurgence of bangs—long and full, shorter on top, and then cut into a soft, updated shag in varying lengths with a grown out feel, what Welby calls a “disconnected” look. Even men are sporting the longer, shaggier locks.

During her stay in Milan, Welby noticed more attention was paid to hairdressing. “Big hair is back in,” she says, “with formal updos, lots of flowers and lots of loose curls.”

While fashion continues to center around individual creativity and personality, political expression also plays a large role in dictating style. Undoubtedly, its biggest influence in recent memory has stemmed from the global unhappiness after the events of Sept. 11. Last year, the war in Iraq brought cargo pants with camouflage prints to the fashion forefront. Dog tags became trendy military accessories. Stars and stripes were once again in vogue.

Today, the fighting continues, but the emotional need to move on to better times is pushing forward—blossoming into shades of pink, yellow, orange, lime green, and red, along with a bevy of black and white, pink and white or floral combinations reminiscent of days gone by. “Everybody wants to forget about what’s on the news,” says Welby. “They just want to feel good again.”

Large glasses, scarves, wide belts, watches, and long, dangling jewelry continue to dominate the accessory market, while “jelly” purses, lacy hosiery or leggings and short, feminine socks, paired with colorful, fabric heels took to the main stage, along with mini skirts and in a few cases, hot pants [yes, hot pants] for the more daring, leggy types. “What I saw last year is really stronger this year,” explains Welby. “The 60s and 70s were just getting started then, and now they’re much stronger—only upgraded.”

And yet, Welby adds that large open knit tops layered over colorful shells and paired with a wide belt over a skirt or pair of slacks offer most women the ability to comfortably suit their shape and tastes while staying on top of the trends. Denim jeans, topped with loose shirts and sport coats dominated the men’s styles, while baggy pants offer a more formal look to the ensemble.

Makeup seems to be going in opposite directions, from smoky and seductive grays and bright green or blue lined lids reminiscent of the 70s to the softer, more earthy shades found in nature that emit a calming effect. “They put a lot of makeup on,” admits Welby. “But the colors are light. It’s not like the dark colors that scream makeup, rather soft color—but a lot of it, along with light, more naturally colored lips. And high gloss is back. It really makes a statement.”

According to Welby, the single most important factor keeping her clients happy lies in education. “It’s not a voluntary thing anymore,” she says. “It’s part of my job. If they don’t have the same products or tools that I use on them, they’re not going to get the same effect at home. It would be like trying to style their hair with a water bottle. It doesn’t matter how good the cut or color is, if they can’t do it, they won’t be happy and they won’t come back.”

Café Hair is located in the Via Valiente Plaza on Almaden Expressway. For more information, call (408) 997-7200.